My mechanic spent 2 hours trying to install this and gave up. Had to return it and bought the full assembly instead.

Very good quality. Would purchase again. I installed on the car with some frustration factor but all in all, it wasn't too bad. The hardest part of this repair is starting the bushing back into the bracket. The removal was pretty simple. I cut the bushing shell and collapsed the bushing and used my puller to remove. I would say if you are going to go this route that you use at least a 6" 3-point puller to insert or remove and get an assistant to help hold everything together as you set up your removal/installation tools. My wife wound up helping me. I used a 2 point puller to remove but was unable to use for the install because it would not pull with even tension across the bushing (A 3 point might work better). I wound up using a 6" C-clamp with two pieces of 1/4" plate on each side of the support and insertion tools. The hard part of this install is getting the bushing inserted square. If you had it out on the bench it would have been much easier but I didn't take the time. I made dozens of attempts using different methods. I finally took the bushing to the bench grinder and using the flange as a guide, beveled the face edge. This made a big difference. Also I took my dremel grinder and cut a 3/8" long slot from the edge in the steel part of the bushing in one place. Not sure I would have ever been able to insert without it. Since I was installing on the car, I indexed the the bushing on top of the bushing and support bracket with a spring punch since you can't very well see the notch when you align it with the gauge from the opposite side as instructed. This made it easy to re-align in a moment from the many times you will start over. I lubed the inside of the bracket and outside of the bushing with RCBS case lube. Found it works well with bushings as well as brass. Like I said earlier I wound up using a 6" C-clamp to finally get it installed. After get the support tool rings positioned and the plates clamped into place, I screwed the clamp down to put some decent pressure on the bushing then rapped the plate good and solid using a 1/2" extension and 16oz ball peen hammer. That started the bushing square. I kept putting pressure on the clamp and helping it with a hammer blow until it was finally seated. I really think the lube helped a lot. Once started the seating process took less than 10 minutes. The trial and error of trying to get the bushing started was over 2 hours. Hopefully if you decide to install on the car this will help you. In retrospect would I do it again on the car, yes I would now that I know what needs to be done. The only thing I removed from the car was one hose that was in the way. It was used quick connects so It wasn't a big deal. I just covered everything with towels to make it a little more cushy and to stay a little cleaner. I would recommend keeping your magnet stick handy as you will drop your rings, metal pieces etc several times. The tools I used.. 6" 2 point gear puller, 6" C-clamp, (2) 3"x4"x1/4" plate scraps, 16oz ball peen hammer, 18" 1/2" extension to use a a extended hammer face, reloaders case lube, dremel grinder with cut off tool, bench grinder to bevel bushing edge, 24" telescoping magnetic retriever tool, and most important..the wife....she was my extra set of hands.

I bought this bushing for my 2005 Mercury Montego and did not realize that the only way to remove the bushing from the car is with a Press tool (that i don't own) and the only way to get this new bushing into place is also with a Press. The rings you see in the product image are for you to use with a press, with a little rigging you (might) be able to come up with a way to use them with a large C Clamp and properly remove/insert the bushing, in my case I was not able to come up with such a method.To Start, the product that I got came with directions about how to insert/remove the bushing using a press and had directions about how to properly align it in the press. as I do not own a press, i did not use this option.For build quality, the bushing is well built has more rubber in it than a lot of the other bushings that I looked at and is working perfectly in my car at this time.Now for the not so pro-tip,!use at your own risk!As I do not own a press and could not come up with a way to remove/insert the bushing I had to come up with a different method.Removal, I used a fine blade hacksaw, I took the hacksaw apart, placing the blade through the OLD Bushing still in the mount and then cut from inside the bushing through the outer metal collar But NOT into the Aluminum Mount! this cut on the OLD Bushing reduces the outside diameter of the metal collar enough so that you can then push/tap it out much easier.Inserting, Again as I don't own a press and could not come up with any other way, I went back to the Hacksaw again, on the NEW Bushing I cut from the outside of the metal collar in and Only cutting through the metal collar and not through the rubber! to be exact I placed my cut directly in line with the middle of the Large bump of rubber on the inside (product image, the bump is at the top of the bushing). this again, reduced the collar's outside diameter so that it would easily push into the mount, I still had to use a C-Clamp to push it into it's final spot.Will it break after cutting it? probably not, as with my car the bushing is held firmly by the mount and by the support arm as well. I would recommend this method only to people that don't have any other option like my self, if you can get the bushing pressed out/in then I say go that route before any thing else! and again,do not cut the Aluminum Mount! only the black metal collar's of the bushings..I would buy this product again if I needed it and would find someone with a press tool to properly remove/insert the bushing. Also, if you dig around, you can buy Just the bushing (Anchor, #3182) it's not as well built as this bushing but it is much cheaper.