Auto Dynasty Compatible with Chevy Silverado Thoe Suburban/GMC Sierra Savana Yukon/Cadillac Escalade Upper Intake Manifold

I gave this 4 stars instead of 5, because of lack of instructions (none included with the Manifold).Seems to be a good replacement for OEM at significantly less $. You do have to relocate one sensor that was on the top to the back of the Manifold (not a big deal). As other reviews have stated the bolts that are provided are not very strong. Being concerned about what I had read from other reviews I decided to torque at what I thought was significantly lower than spec torque setting. I misread the OEM torque spec. I read ft/lbs. OEM IS Inch/Pounds. I broke one bolt and had to remove the entire manifold and extract the broken bolt.The Manifold came with extra bolts. When I torqued them to the proper settings in sequence none of them broke. Torque first at 45 Inch/Lbs, then second torque at 89 Inch/Lbs. Worked perfect.

Is good quality but I had to return it because did not fit my 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500

Was hoping this was the correct part unfortunately, it was still too big & returned part

I have a 2002 Cadillac Escalade with the lq9 and it had that old ugly truck intake manifold. Well this one not only looks better but works just the same. It fit perfectly with all the sensors. Only reason I gave it 3 stars was because of how weak the screws are. Should be done hand tight and just snug. No need to impact it, had that mistake already, I didn’t do it but I had to extract it. All in all besides for the weak intake bolts it’s made very good

Has all of the hardware you need. It also was much cheaper and same quality compared to auto zone or orielys

The product looked good coming out of the box. No instructions what so ever with the unit so it is a guessing game for a few of the items that are different. I was able to figure out everything and got the intake manifold ready to install. started torquing bolts in the pattern the GM recommends. Torque is in inches and the first round is 44 lb-in then the second is set at 89 lb-in. I did not like the way the bolts looked from the start. I started on bolt one and got it set to 89lb-in then I was working on the second bolt when it popped. I had to remove the intake manifold and then extract the broken bolt which was no easy job. No amazon will not refund money until the Co. has 48 hours to come up with a solution. Be warned do not buy this product. Just go ahead and by the OEM and avoid this issue.

Assembly Instructions for GM 4.8/5.3/6.0L V8 Intake Manifold1.0 Remove the positive terminal from the vehicle’s battery2.0 Remove the bolt from the front of the top of the engine holding the engine cover down. Raise the engine cover and pullslightly to remove the engine cover from the top of the manifold3.0 Loosen the two hose clamps on both ends of the air inlet duct. This will be where the air inlet duct connects to the throttlebody and the connection of the duct to the air cleaner box. Remove the plastic push in pin from the engine mount. This willallow for the removal of the air inlet duct from the front of the engine.4.0 The wiring harness running down the side of the manifold on the driver side is secured to the intake manifold near the front ofthe manifold on the driver’s side. Remove the hex nut that holds down the small plastic bracket which the wiring harness issecured. Once the nut has been removed, move the wiring harness of to the side of the intake manifold.5.0 CAUTION: Read all of step five prior to actually completing the work5.1 On the passenger side of the intake about in the middle of the fuel rail you will find a pressure relief valve. Removethe cap on the top of the pressure relief valve.5.2 With a towel covering the valve press the needle in the center of the valve downward to release the fuel pressure inthe fuel rail assembly. A small amount of fuel will come out when the pressure is relieved.5.3 Once the pressure has been relieved put the cap back on to the pressure relief valve.5.4 On the driver side of the manifold is where the connection between the fuel line and the fuel rail assembly. Removethe safety clip for this connection.5.5 Using an “A/C & Fuel Line Quick Disconnect Tool” disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail assembly.5.6 Remove the safety clip on all eight of the electrical connectors for the fuel injectors5.7 Remove all eight electrical connectors from the fuel injectors. It is recommended that these are labeled prior todisconnecting to assure they are reinstalled in the proper location.6.0 Looking at the throttle body, slide the hose clamp back on the coolant line going to the bottom right corner of the throttle body.Remove this coolant line, during removal a small amount of coolant will drain from the hose.7.0 Remove the hose on the passenger side of the manifold near the throttle body8.0 On the driver side near the fire wall is where the PCV valve and PCV hose connection is. Remove the rubber hose connectedto the PCV Valve. Also remove the rubber hose at the point it attaches to the intake manifold. This will allow for the nylonformed tube with the two rubber hose connectors attached to be removed from the engine compartment. Once this has beenremoved the rubber hose connector on the end that connected to the manifold needs to be removed. Set PCV tube asideuntil reassembly.9.0 Remove the electrical connector going to the MAP sensor and set aside to assure it will not be damaged during removal andinstallation of the intake manifold10.0 Remove the hex head bolt that secures the purge solenoid to the intake manifold. Gently rotate while pulling upward toremove the purge solenoid. Set the purge solenoid with the hose attached aside to prevent damage during the removal andinstallation of the intake manifold.11.0 Remove the ten hex head bolts that mount the intake manifold to the cylinder heads. The bolts are captive to the manifoldand will not be used to install the new intake manifold.12.0 The manifold is now ready to be removed from the engine. Pull up on the intake manifold and place it on angle with thethrottle body facing up. Remove the three hex nuts securing the throttle body to the intake manifold. Remove the throttlebody and set aside with the electrical connectors attached to prevent damage during the removal and installation process.13.0 With the manifold removed from the engine you can now remove the following items13.1 Remove the plastic bracket that retains the end of the engine cover by removing the three hex head bolts13.2 Remove the four hex head bolts that secure the fuel rail and by pulling straight up while holding onto the fuel railremove the fuel rail assemble from the intake manifold. Place the fuel rail on a clean cloth to assure no dirt can get inthe fuel injectors13.3 Remove the MAP sensor from your old intake manifold and install this MAP sensor into your new intake manifold.Use a self tapping screw with washer provided in the component kit in the boss next to the MAP sensor opening.Tighten the screw until the washer begins to contact the MAP sensor tabs, DO NOT TIGHTEN MORE THAN 5NM.DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!14.0 Install the plastic bracket onto the new intake manifold that retains the rear of the engine cover. Use three of the large threadformingscrews supplied in the kits bag to secure the bracket to the manifold. Tighten to 5 Nm. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!15.0 Remove the eight bolts from the mounting bosses on the new intake manifold. Keep the eight bolts and thick washers as theywill be used to mount the intake manifold to the cylinder heads in a later step. The nuts and thin washer can be disregardedand discard the nuts as they will not be required in later steps.Revison F 11/06/201216.0 Now the intake manifold is ready to be installed to the engine. Place the intake manifold into the valley of the engine with thethrottle body flange on a slight incline so that the throttle body can be reinstalled.17.0 Install the three-provided double-ended studs to the throttle body flange. Place the throttle body over the three studs andsecure the throttle body with the hex nuts removed when the throttle body was removed from the old manifold NOTE: Thismust be installed on the manifold prior to the manifold being completely installed onto the cylinder heads.18.0 With the manifold still on a slight incline also reconnect the electrical connector to the MAP sensor manifold NOTE: This mustbe installed on the manifold prior to the manifold being completely installed onto the cylinder heads.19.0 Proceed now with aligning the manifold with the cylinder head. Take caution to not damage any of the electrical wires thathave disconnected during the removal of the old intake manifold. Also be cautious to not damage the knock sensor wiresinstalled in the valley of the engine.20.0 With the manifold aligned start all ten cylinder head mounting bolts. Eight of these bolts we removed from the new intakemanifold in an earlier step and two of these bolts are included in the kits bag.21.0 Torque all ten bolts in the sequence specified in the intake manifold. Also ensure that the required torque that is called out onthe manifold is obtained.22.0 Reinstall the plastic bracket connected to the wiring harness. Place the plastic bracket over the stud on the intake manifoldand secure it using the hex nut previously removed from the old manifold.23.0 Install the fuel rail assembly into the new intake manifold. Press down lightly on each side of the fuel rail to initial seat the fuelinjector in there pockets. Once the initial seating has been completed press on the fuel rail directly above each injector to fullyseat each fuel injector. Secure the fuel rail assembly to the manifold using four of the large thread-forming screws supplied inthe kits bag. Tighten to 5 Nm. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!24.0 Reinstall the eight electrical connectors to each fuel injector. Take caution to make sure that the proper connector is mated upwith the proper fuel injector.25.0 Reinstall the safety clip on each of the eight electrical connectors for each fuel injector.26.0 Reinstall the coolant hose to the bottom of the throttle body. Once the hose has pushed onto the fitting completely pinch thehose clamp and slide back up the hose to secure the hose to the nipple.27.0 Reinstall the hose on the passenger side of the intake manifold near the throttle body28.0 Reconnect the fuel line to the fuel rail assembly. Take extreme caution to assure this connection is made properly andcompletely by pulling on the fuel line to ensure a secure connection.29.0 Replace the safety clip for this connection30.0 Now install the PCV nylon tube back into manifold. The end in which the rubber connection was removed from the nylonneeds to pushed into the rubber hose that is installed on the top or the intake manifold. Make sure that the nylon tube ispressed into the rubber hose completely to prevent any leakage. The other end of the nylon tube with the rubber connectorstill installed needs to be pushed over the PCV valve completely.31.0 Reinstall the purge solenoid by gently rotating the pushing down on the purge solenoid. Once the purge solenoid is seatedrotate the base to align the screw hole with the mounting hole. Use one of the large thread-forming screws supplied in the kitbag to secure the purge solenoid to the intake manifold. Tighten to 5 Nm. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!32.0 Reinstall the plastic bracket connected to the wiring harness. Secure the plastic bracket to the intake manifold using one ofthe large thread-forming screws supplied in the kits bag. Tighten to 5 Nm. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!33.0 Replace the engine cover making sure to engage the retaining features in the back of the cap and screw the front of the capby tightening the hex head bolt that is captive to the engine cover34.0 Replace the air inlet duct and secure both hose clamps at the throttle body and the air cleaner35.0 Reconnect the positive battery terminal.Specific Application Notes:For vacuum assist brake boost applications prior to reinstalling the brake boost hose to the manifold put the corrugatedplastic hose protector over the hose along with the hose clamp removed when removing the plastic cap from the manifold.Position the hose protector so that the fuel lines will rest on the hose protector. Install the hose over the brake boost nippleand install the clamp.For mechanical throttle body applications there are three large thread-forming screws in the kit bag for installing you throttlecable bracket. Do not use the bolts from your old manifold. Tighten to 5 Nm. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!For High Output applications use the double ended stud in the kits bag and install in the same location as your old manifold.This stud will act as your engine cover hold down

Installed this on my 2002 Tahoe after I was told the original had leaks (She has 216k miles). I was a little reluctant because of the price difference. But I cannot tell any difference at this point. I have had it for several months with no issues. Be sure to go easy on the bolts that screw into the engine. They do not torque to the same specs because these bolts are a little more fragile.